The Story Behind Skokie's Hottest Restaurant, Libertad

Armando Gonzalez first came to America from Mexico with only four quarters in his pocket. The money was supposed to be used to call his brother in Chicago to pick him up from O'Hare International Airport. Unfortunately, his brother never picked up, and Gonzalez found his way home by taking a train system he'd never seen before.

That was in 1985, when Gonzalez was only 17. Fast forward to today, and the Mexican immigrant is cooking up a storm at Skokie's hottest restaurant, Libertad. Earlier this week, Chicago Magazine named it one of the top 20 newest restaurants in Chicago.

The 35-year-old Gonzalez was at his restaurant at 7931 Lincoln Ave. on Tuesday. Before sitting down with Patch, Gonzalez was in the kitchen, coordinating with two other cooks in Spanish. The duo appeared to be taking mental notes from the executive chef. 

"I first started selling candy and shining shoes in the streets of Mexico," he said. "I saved money and me and my mom opened a small restaurant in Oaxaca, {Mexico].

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"Right now, I pretty much can say that I learned all the flavors from my mother," he added. "We don't do traditional stuff here."

Before opening Libertad with co-owner Marcos Rivera, Gonzalez was making nachos and hot wings at a sports bar in Chicago. He gradually moved up, and eventually became the Sous Chef at Mas in Wicker Park. Prior to that, he worked at Bin 36 and MK. 

"It was unbelievable," he said. "My food was competing with all these million dollar restaurants in the area. Now, this tiny restaurant in Skokie is competing with [similar] restaurants. That means a lot to me."

Gonzalez met his business partner, Marcos Rivera, while working the restaurant scene in Chicago. Rivera - a Niles North graduate - was born into the business; his father owns the Las Palmas' restaurants in Chicago.

"My father came here just like Armando did," Rivera said. "He started off the same way and worked his way up to cooking at the Ritz Carlton. He opened his first restaurant in 1985. That was Las Palmas in Wicker Park. I started from the bottom - I washed dishes, sat people as a host. But growing up in the business, I wanted to get away from it for a while."

Rivera said he went on to work at the Sony Theatre - now Portillio's - and even sold insurance for a brief period. He said he came back to the family business when his dad got older. At that point, his family had three restaurants and they needed all the help they could get.

"The number one thing I learned from my father - our guests - is to make sure they are always having the best time. That goes for everyone you work with, too. You treat everyone with respect."

What's in store next for Rivera and Gonzalez?

The two said they are looking to open another restaurant in the downtown Skokie area.

"Skokie really doesn't have anything like [Libertad]," Rivera said. "It is close enough to the city, the North Shore. We know we have a great concept - Armando is great - we have a great team ... There's still room for something else here."

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